Tilicho Peak (7134 metres) Expedition: Climbing and Mountaineering

Trip Overview
  • Duration 25 Days
  • Difficulty Level Very Strenuous or Grade D (****)
  • DestinationNepal
  • Meals & AccommodationBreakfast, Lunch and Dinner
  • Trip Start & EndKathmandu-Kathmandu
  • Trip TypePeak Climbing
  • Major AttractionTilicho Lake, Tilicho Peak, Tilicho Base Camp, Manang
  • Maximum Altitude7134 meters
  • Best TimeApril-May-June, September-October-November

Highlights

  • A 7000m climb that presents both technical challenges and piques interest
  • Set against the stunning backdrop of Tilicho Lake's exquisite beauty.
  • The mountain boasts a low climber-to-mountain ratio, allowing climbers to experience the remote traditional villages akin to Tibet.
  • Test your high-altitude climbing skills in this unique location and trek alongside our skilled Sherpa Climbing Guides. 
  • Rest assured, our well-organized camps and logistics on the mountain will enable you to focus on the climb.
  • The Himalayan Annapurna region provides a stunning backdrop for the expedition.
  • Experienced Sherpa guides will be on hand to lead the way through this unfamiliar territory.
  • Immerse themselves in the local culture and visit traditional Nepali villages. 
  • The expedition will allow the team to bond and work together.

While they may not boast the same level of prestige as the world's highest peaks or the revered 8000M summits, 7000M peaks provide an incredible challenge for those who crave adventure. Don't be fooled by their lack of renown - these peaks offer mountaineers a unique and gratifying experience. With a focus on climbing, cultural immersion, and personal achievement, 7000-meter mountains are perfect for those seeking a genuine test of their limits.

For those seeking a technical challenge that reaches the staggering height of 7000M, the climb up Tilicho Peak presents a promising opportunity. This expedition begins with a breathtaking trek through the Annapurna circuit, leading up to Tilicho Lake, the highest lake on earth, at an impressive altitude of 4949 meters. Standing tall and grand in the Annapurna region of Nepal, to the north of Manang, Tilicho Peak boasts an elevation of 7134 meters.

Its snow-clad northeast ridge dominates the Kali Gandaki Valley in the west and the Marshyangdi Valley in the east, while the elusive kingdom of Mustang lies only a few miles to the north. To scale this peak, the standard climbing route is via the northwest shoulder, with the base camp set up at the northwest end of the lake at an elevation of 4910 meters.

Ascending Tilicho Peak demands both advanced climbing skills and physical fitness, with prior experience in alpine and high-altitude climbing strongly recommended. The peak is graded as a 4D climb, combining rock and ice climbing and traversing glaciers. To reach the summit, climbers must navigate through three high camps.

Starting from the base camp, the initial climb to Camp 1 at 5800 meters involves a 590-meter-long route with a 50-degree incline of mixed rock and ice. From there, Camp 2, at 6200 meters, is situated on the shoulder, accessible by a 450-meter-long 55-degree snowfield. The shoulder spans 800 meters with a 55-degree angle but presents a low objective danger and minimal exposure due to its ample width. A 40-degree slope must be traversed with fixed ropes to reach Camp 2 at 6300 meters. The final push to the summit entails climbing stretches of a 60-degree incline.

History

The ascent of Tilicho Peak presents a challenging yet uncomplicated undertaking. Nestled by the striking aqua-blue Tilicho Lake, the Tilicho Peak Base Camp is the starting point for this technically intriguing climb. The standard route, leading through the northwest shoulder, presents a mix of rock and ice, ultimately leading to steep snowfields.

Despite its steep incline, Tilicho Peak boasts minimal objective danger, with the shoulder being considerably wide. The summit offers a spectacular view of the Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateau, the Kali Gandaki valley, the world's deepest valley, and Tilicho Lake, all visible in one breathtaking panorama.

Maurice Herzog led a French expedition to Nepal in 1950 to explore possible routes to ascend Annapurna I. However, they discovered a colossal rock and ice wall between them and Annapurna I at Tilicho Lake. This formidable obstacle was, in fact, the north-northwest extension of a rocky and icy shoulder that stretched 11km before plunging into Tilicho Lake.

The French expedition dubbed it "la Grande Barrier" or the great barrier. Tilicho Peak, situated at the end of the Great Barrier, towers above the glacial Tilicho Lake. French climber Emanuel Schmutz was the first to summit Tilicho Peak via the Northwest shoulder, which has since remained the standard climbing route.

Which Route Is Suitable for Tilicho Peak Expedition?

While trekking along the Annapurna route, starting from Dharapani, you will come across numerous villages with a Tibetan Buddhist influence. These villages are known for their unique heritage and religious symbols, including chortens, prayer flags, and Gompas or monasteries. The trail offers breathtaking scenery as we pass through Chame, Pisang, and Manang villages, where we will take a break to acclimate. It is essential to stay active during this period. Once rested, we will proceed to Shiri Khraka and finally reach Tilicho Peak Base Camp beside Tilicho Lake, our water source. 

You can easily follow the famous Annapurna Circuit trail to Manang fromKathmandu. It's crucial to properly acclimatize yourself before ascending to the lake, as you'll be spending a night at an altitude of 4,900m. Once in Manang, there are plenty of day hikes to explore.

Next, you'll need to walk for 2 to 6 hours from Manang to Siri Kharka. To find out if the Tilicho Base Camp Hotel is open, ask the guesthouses in the area. If it happens to be closed, don't worry! The owner will likely send someone to open the hotel for you.

After Shiri Kharka, from Khangsar (3,700m), two routes lead to the Tilicho Base Camp Hotel. The lower route stays at around 4,100m, but it traverses some unstable scree slopes and is not advisable during snowfall due to the high risk of avalanches. On the other hand, the upper route climbs up to 4,800m and then descends steeply to the Tilicho Base Camp Hotel at 4,100m. Besides offering more breathtaking views, the upper path is preferred for safety and acclimatization.

The climb to Tilicho Lake is steep but relatively simple and takes approximately 3 to 5 hours. There's a campsite on the east shore where you can spend the night. You can spend your afternoon exploring the surrounding areas of this awe-inspiring place while continuously hearing avalanches tumbling down from the mountains.

Why Will Tilicho Expedition Be Right For You?

Tilicho Peak (7134m) is rarely scaled due to its location in the Annapurna Range, to the West of Manang and South West of the Thorong La. The climb can be completed in just 25-30 days and offers an incredible experience of a seven-thousand-meter peak. The ascent requires setting up two camps above the Base Camp at heights of 5800m and 6200m, respectively. The climb entails a combination of snow and ice and good mixed climbing on fixed ropes. Tilicho Peak is an excellent training ground for aspiring Everest climbers as it offers a quality climb up a 7000m peak without the need to tackle an 8000m peak. The best time to climb From the summit, climbers can enjoy breathtaking views of Manaslu and the dramatic Annapurna range.

For those seeking to climb a 7000m to 8000m peak in the Annapurna Himal range of Nepal, Tilicho Peak Expedition 7134m is an exceptional destination. Situated between Nepal's Myagdi and Mustang districts, this expedition offers a unique experience distinguishes it from other peak climbing ventures. At Climbing Himalaya, we are dedicated to providing our clients with customized packages that cater to their specific requirements.

Our Tilicho Peak Expedition package includes all the necessary components for a successful climb, including logistics, transportation, accommodation, and professional mountain guides, all at a reasonable cost. We strive to ensure our clients have the best possible experience and are fully equipped to climb Tilicho Peak. Our team of experts is experienced in handling any challenges that may arise during the expedition, so climbers can rest assured that their dream of summiting Tilicho Peak can become a reality. If you're ready to embark on a professional peak climbing journey in Nepal's Himalayas, please don't hesitate to contact us at Mountain Rock Treks. 

At Mountain Rock Treks, climbing is a fulfilling and enjoyable experience that brings us to breathtaking locations and encourages us to tap into our inner strength and creativity. Whether scaling the highest peaks or hiking up a scenic trail, you're one of us if you love mountain travel. Our definition of climbing encompasses all forms of off-road, human-powered mountain travel, and we embrace climbers of all backgrounds and skill levels.

Our Success Trips

We summited the summit and traveled to Nepal with thousands of people. Still, our true victory is to get your destination that brings us to the top with our complete service of trekking, mountaineering, and adventure tours.

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Itinerary

Day to Day Info

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Kathmandu Elevation: (1400m/4590 ft)

Overnight: Hotels of Kathmandu

Upon your scheduled arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be greeted by a representative from Mountain Rock Treks and Expedition, who will accompany you to your hotel in the bustling city center of Kathmandu. Our helpful staff will assist you with the check-in process at the hotel. Afterward, you can relax in your room or visit our office to learn more about your upcoming trip. 

  • Hotels
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • Free Day
  • 1400m/4590 ft

Kathmandu Elevation: (1400m/4590 ft)

Overnight: Hotels of Kathmandu

As we gear up for the Tilicho Peak Expedition, we know that preparation is key to success. We'll gather to ensure we have everything we need for the journey ahead. Each piece of equipment is necessary for our safety and comfort, from sturdy boots to warm layers. In our briefing, we'll discuss the route and plan for the climb, mapping out our path and identifying potential hazards and obstacles. We'll work together to brainstorm solutions and prepare for any challenges that may arise along the way.

  • Hotels
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • Free Day
  • (1400m/4590 ft)

Dharapani Elevation: (1860m/6,103ft)

Driving Hours: 10-12 hours

Overnight: Tea House at Dharapani

Elevation Gain: 460 m

Today we will drive away from the chaotic streets of Kathmandu and head towards Dharapani, the starting point of the trek. Dharapani is nestled amidst the towering peaks of the Annapurna and Mt. Manaslu - the world's eighth-highest mountain. The path leading to Jagat's heads northwards, following the Marsyangdi Valley, with Himalchuli and Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29 - 7871m) looming in the distance. As we trek through this region, we will pass by serene villages and lush rice paddies. Following a rocky trail along the Marsyangdi River, we will encounter several breathtaking waterfalls, verdant flora, and fauna. The trail winds uphill until we reach Tal, which means "lake" in Nepali. Tal is the first village in the Manang district and marks a dramatic change in the landscape from the lush beginnings of the trek. As we move ahead, the trail ascends through an impressive, wide valley, with stone staircases leading us toward the village of Dharapani.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 10-12 hours
  • (1860m/6,103ft)

Chame Elevation: (2650m/8,695ft) 

Trekking Hours: 4-6 hours

Elevation Gain: 790m

Overnight: Teahouse of Chame

Today's path tracks along the Marsyangdi River, making its way up to Timang at an elevation of 2360m and then through dense pine and fir woods. While ascending through the forest, the views of the valley and Annapurna II (7937m) are breathtaking. This is where you start experiencing the sensation of being in the lofty Himalayan mountains. Before reaching Chame, the administrative hub of the Manang District, we will also have the opportunity to witness stunning panoramas of Mt. Manaslu (8156m) and Peak 29 (7871m).

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 4-6 hours
  • (2650m/8,695ft)

Pisang Elevation: (3250m/10,665ft)  

Trekking Hours: 4-6 hours

Elevation Gain: 600m

Overnight: Teahouse of Pisang 

We will cover a distance of 13 kilometers or 8 miles and hike for approximately 6-7 hours from Chame to Pisang, which is at an altitude of 3250m. Our journey commences by leaving the village and passing a prayer wheel leading us into a dense pine forest. The Marsyangdi Valley becomes narrower and steeper, and the trail is etched into the vertical rock face. As we move past this point, the valley expands, and we are greeted with a breathtaking mountain vista. The Paungda Danda rock face, which towers over 1500m above the trailhead, is believed by the local Gurungs to be the Gateway to Heaven. We will continue to ascend to Pisang while enjoying this magnificent view.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 4-6 hours
  • (3250m/10,665ft)  

Manang Elevation: (3520m/11,550ft) 

Trekking Hours: 5-6 hours

Elevation Gain: 270m

Overnight: Teahouse of Manang 

From Pisang, located at 3520m above sea level, the trail spans 12.5 km or 7.76 miles and takes 5-6 hours to complete. As one trek through the upper region of Manang District, the pervasive influence of Tibetan/Buddhist culture can be observed. The locals here primarily engage in yak herding and maize cultivation. Two routes are available after leaving Pisang, both of which follow the Marsyangdi River and converge again in the villages of Mungji and Braga, the latter of which boasts a picturesque monastery. The southern route is a comparatively easy ascent alongside the river, while the northern route entails a more arduous climb along the valley's north ridge. Nevertheless, the panoramic views of the Annapurna range from the northern route are breathtaking.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 4-6 hours
  • (3520m/11,550ft) 

Manang Elevation: (3520m/11,550ft) 

Overnight: Teahouse of Manang 

Today we will take a day off for rest and acclimatization. There are several day walks available that not only provide breathtaking views but also increase altitude. One option is to hike up the hill (with a 400m ascent) behind Manang and visit the monastery. From there, you can enjoy magnificent views of the Annapurna range and observe the enormous icefall cascading from Gangapurna. Another possibility is to undertake a challenging hike to Ice Lake (4500m), which takes around 5-6 hours and offers stunning views of the area. The perfect conclusion to the day is to sit back and admire the sunset over the Himalayas.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • Free Day
  • (3520m/11,550ft)

Siri Kharka Elevation: (4060m/13,320ft)

Trekking Hours: 5-8 hours

Elevation Gain: 540m

Overnight: Teahouse of Siri Kharka

On the eighth day of our Tilicho Peak expedition, we will trek from Manang to Siri Kharka, which typically takes 4-5 hours. To begin, we will exit through the western gate and follow the path toward the river. From there, we will continue along the trail, which runs along the southern side of the coniferous forest. After passing through Kangsar village, we will arrive at Siri Kharka. Along the way, we will have the opportunity to visit a monastery and take in stunning views of Gungang Himal and Mt. Chulu, which will serve as great sources of motivation. We will spend the night at Siri Kharka.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 5-8 hours
  • (4060m/13,320ft)

Tilicho Base Camp Elevation: (4920m/16,140ft)

Trekking Hours: 5-8 hours

Elevation Gain: 860m

Overnight: Tented Camps

On the ninth day of our Annapurna region trek, we'll embark on a moderately challenging journey toward the Tilicho base camp. The path is narrow and strewn with loose rocks, making it susceptible to landslides. Therefore, we must tread cautiously, which can make the trek tiring. Despite this, we'll be rewarded with stunning views of rock formations and snow-covered peaks, including the majestic Tilicho Peak.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 5-8 hours
  • (4920m/16,140ft)

Tilicho Peak Elevation: (7134m/23,406ft)

Overnight: Tented Camps

From day 10 to day 20, the climbers will be engaged in the arduous task of scaling Tilicho Peak, which stands tall at 7134 meters or 23,406 feet. This period of ten days will be dedicated to the rigorous process of climbing and summiting the peak.

At a towering height of 7134 meters, Tilicho Peak is a formidable challenge for even the most seasoned climbers. The climb is fraught with danger and requires much technical skill and endurance. The journey to the summit tests physical and mental fortitude, as the climbers must contend with steep inclines, treacherous terrain, and unpredictable weather conditions.

  • Tented Camps
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 10 Days
  • (7134m/23,406ft)

Manang Elevation: (3520m/11,550ft) 

Trekking Hours: 5-8 hours

Overnight: Teahouse of Manang 

Day 21 of your trek brings an exciting adventure from Base Camp to the picturesque town of Manang. Situated at 3520 meters or 11,550 feet above sea level, Manang provides an ideal location for trekkers to adjust to the high altitude and enjoy the scenic beauty. The trek will take approximately 5 to 8 hours, and the rugged terrain may pose some challenges. However, the breathtaking panoramic views of the mountains and surrounding landscapes will make each step worthwhile.

Once you arrive in Manang, you can unwind at a cozy teahouse for the night. The teahouse offers a hospitable and warm environment, and the local cuisine is not to be missed. Take some time to rest and rejuvenate after a long day's trek and explore the unique cultural traditions of the town.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 5-8 hours
  • (3520m/11,550ft) 

Chame Elevation: (2650m/8,695ft) 

Trekking Hours: 4-8 hours

Elevation Loss: 870m

Overnight: Teahouse of Chame

On Day 22 of your trek, you'll go from Manang to Chame, nestled at an impressive elevation of 2650 meters (8695 feet) above sea level. Brace yourself for a trek that could take 4 to 8 hours, depending on how fast you move and the weather conditions. During this journey, you'll gradually lose an elevation of 870 meters, so get ready for some downhill walking. Once you reach Chame, you'll experience staying at a teahouse, a popular type of accommodation along Nepal's famous trekking routes. Teahouses are basic but cozy, offering everything you need for a good night's sleep, such as a bed, blankets, and food. But more than that, they provide a unique opportunity to get to know the local culture and interact with other hikers worldwide.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 4-8 hours
  • (2650m/8,695ft) 

Kathmandu Elevation: (1400m/4590 ft)

Driving Hours: 10-12 hours

Elevation Loss: 1250m

Overnight: Hotels of Kathmandu

On the 23rd day of your adventure, a scenic drive from Chame to Kathmandu awaits. The journey typically takes 10-12 hours, and you'll experience an elevation loss of 1250m. Kathmandu, a bustling city that sits at an elevation of 1400m/4590 ft, is the final stop for the day, and numerous hotels are available for a comfortable overnight stay.

Nestled in the Himalayas at an altitude of 3,519 meters, Chame is a charming town in the Manang district of Nepal. The town is renowned for its stunning location along the Marshyangdi River and the Thorong La pass leading to the Muktinath shrine. Chame is well-connected by jeep roads and trekking trails, making it a popular destination for adventure enthusiasts. In addition, the town is an important trading hub for the locals, contributing to its unique cultural significance.

  • Tea Houses
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • 10-12 hours
  • (1400m/4590 ft)

Kathmandu Elevation: (1400m/4590 ft)

Overnight: Hotels of Kathmandu

On the 24th day of the itinerary, there will be a day of rest and exploration in Kathmandu. Situated at 1400m or 4590 ft, Kathmandu offers an excellent opportunity for visitors to acclimate to the altitude. The overnight stay will be at one of the hotels in Kathmandu.

  • Hotels
  • Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
  • Free Day
  • (1400m/4590 ft)

Before your flight, a Mountain Rock Treks representative will verify your flight tickets and provide transportation to the airport, anticipating the opportunity to cross paths with you again.

  • Hotels
  • Breakfast
  • Free Day
  • (1400m/4590 ft)

We are pleased to offer the flexibility of tailoring your journey to your desired duration and places, whether extended or shortened, as our proficient team of locals-cum-guides, porters, and accompanying staff have an in-depth understanding of every location traveled.

customize my trip

Cost Details

Includes

  • Kitchen Equipment, Trekking tents, Dining tent, Kitchen Tents, Toilet Tents, Tables and chairs, and Mattresses during the trekking & Peak climbing period
  • Climbing Rope, Ice screws, Snow bars
  • Staff, including a professional climbing guide 
  • Personal insurance for Nepalese staff.
  • Our service charge
  • Equipment Fees for climbing guide
  • Climbing peak permit/s & other necessary fees- Annapurna conservation permit and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System)
  • All the government and local taxes with paperwork
  • Garbage deposit (USD 250)
  • Airfare for climber guide
  • Personal climbing Gear per person such as Crampons, Harness, Ice Axe, Screwgate, Karabiners
  • Honest, helpful local porter: 1 porter=2 clients, including his food, accommodation, trek equipment, and insurance

Excludes

  • Personal Insurance for travel to Nepal (Compulsory)
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation
  • Sleeping bag & down jacket
  • Personal expenses
  • Tipping (Tips) for staff
  • Bar bills & beverage

Dates & Price

The above itinerary can be re-designed as per your interest & preferences. Let us know whether you would like some changes to the Trek.

Essential Info

Planning Your Expedition: Group, permits, and gear required for a successful climb

Group or Solo

Before the Peak expedition, one must travel with a partner or in a larger group. Going solo offers plenty of time to reflect, make decisions, and learn about oneself. But it also entails reducing the safety factor of traveling with companions. For those who travel with a partner, find someone they can trust. Similarly, they can get along since their partner can make or break their trip.

Sometimes, a group of three or more can work better, especially when undertaking more challenging expeditions, as the workload can be shared. For climbing trips, having a group also means that there will always be company during long belay stances, which can be mentally challenging. Finally, when opting to travel in a larger team, it is crucial to make an effort to get to know everyone beforehand, mainly if they are not all friends, to avoid breaking up into cliques and feeling like strangers at the airport. 

Permits Required

ACAP Permit:-

An ACAP permit, short for Annapurna Conservation Area Permit, is mandatory for trekkers who plan to trek in the Annapurna Region and Tilicho Peak expeditions. It is necessary to purchase this permit in advance of the trekking activity. The permit cost is NPR 3000 or US $30 per person, and trekkers can choose either option for payment.

However, it is suggested to pay in NPR to get the benefits of the local exchange rate. Although the counter staff may ask for payment in US dollars, it is advisable to politely request the price in NPR. SAARC nationals must pay NPR 1000 per person for the ACAP permit, and children below ten are exempted from the permit fee.

ACAP permits can also be issued via a trekking agency for those in a hurry or who do not want any hassle. The trekking agency can assist in arranging the permit per the trekker's requirements. To issue the ACAP permit, the essential documents must be sent to the agency.

TIMS Permit

Trekkers must obtain a Trekkers' Information Management Systems (TIMS) card. This card is mandatory for ensuring the safety and security of trekkers and promoting well-managed trekking experiences. Obtaining a TIMS card involves following a specific process, including submitting a PP-size photograph, a copy of the passport, and payment of the required fees.

The TIMS card serves as a means of recording factual data. It can be obtained from the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB), the Trekking Agencies Association Nepal (TAAN), or authorized trekking companies approved by the government.

Anyone planning a trip to Nepal to be aware that the cost of a TIMS Card has recently gone up to 2000 rupees per person. 

Royality For Climbers

To regulate the number of climbers and ensure safety, the Nepalese government determines the permit fees for climbing various peaks and mountains in Nepal. The fees for foreign climbers to climb Tilicho Peak vary depending on the season. With the highest fee of $500 in the peak climbing season of spring, followed by a lower fee of $250 in autumn.

The fee drops to $125 in the winter, considered an off-season for climbing. Nepalese climbers pay lower permit fees than foreign climbers, with fixed yearly fees. 

In particular, Nepalese climbers pay 6000 Nepalese Rupees (around USD 50) to climb in the spring. In the Autumn months, the Nepalese should pay 3000 Nepalese Rupees (around USD 25). And 1500 Nepalese Rupees (around USD 12.50) in the winter season.

Gears Required

Peak climbing requires proper equipment and preparation for a safe and successful expedition. Mountain Rock Treks has provided a list of essential peak climbing gear to ensure safety in the Nepal Himalayas.

The essential peak climbing gears include an alpine range climbing and expedition harness, crampons, ice axe and hammer, ascender, power controller multi-lead lamp, karabiners, rappel device, trek/ski poles, climbing safety helmets, sun and snow glasses, oxygen bottles, tape sling, and outerwear clothing.

The equipment must be lightweight, adaptable, and suitable for various conditions. Climbing helmets and warm outerwear clothing are crucial for safety in places with stone falls, ice falls, and snow ladders.

Personal medical kit, sunscreen, lip protection, energy bars, water thermos, water and windproof gloves, warm socks, hats, and Gore-Tex jackets are also important. Ski poles should be purchased from accredited vendors to avoid buying imitation poles that may pose a safety risk. You can check our Peak Climbing Gears and Equipment List blog here for a more detailed gear and equipment list. 

Will Tilicho Peak Expedition be Difficult For You (Climbing Technicality)?

Tilicho Peak expedition involves climbing a mountain with a combination of rock and ice climbs and glaciers, graded at a D+ difficulty level. The climb to the summit of Peak Tilicho involves establishing three high camps. The route from Base Camp to Camp 1 (5800m) is relatively straightforward, with a mixture of 50-degree mixed rock and ice climb over a 590m distance.

Camp 2 (6200m) is situated on the shoulder of the mountain and can be accessed via a 55-degree 450m snowfield. The shoulder has an 800m snowfield with low objective danger and shallow exposure due to its wide expanse. Climbing Tilicho Peak with fixed ropes is required on a 40-degree slope to reach Camp II at 6300m, and the summit is approached by rising on some stretches of a 60-degree slope.

To begin the expedition, a base camp is established near the lake.  From the base camp at around 4400m, the final goal of climbing Tilicho 7,134m is set. The climbing route from Base Camp to Camp I is a steep 70º/90º, while the route from Camp I to Camp II is a vertical ice climb with a steep 90º angle. The climbing route from Camp II to Camp III is steep, with angles ranging from 40º/60º or a maximum of 70º to reach the summit.

Training for Tilicho: Physical and mental preparation for the challenge ahead

Excellent physical condition is crucial for any high-altitude expedition, including the Tilicho Peak climb. You must stick to a consistent and rigorous training regimen to prepare for this challenging adventure.  Additionally, practice ascending and descending step-up ladders commonly found on steep faces at high elevations.

Physical Training

The Tilicho peak expedition is not to be taken lightly, as it is graded at D+ (Fitness level). Climbing this peak requires a high level of physical and technical ability, and climbers must have prior experience of at least one high-altitude climb of 7000M or 8000M+ anywhere in the world. Therefore, it is essential to be in excellent physical shape to complete this expedition, and past climbing experiences and knowledge are vital for this.

We strongly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training to prepare for this expedition. Some suggested training methods include various aerobic exercises. You can include long-distance running (over 20km) three to four times a week, cycling (1-2 hours), and hiking with 15-20 kgs of weight to gain elevation. Strength building and muscle endurance training are critical to focus on, and we recommend kettlebell routines as an effective workout.

Moreover, climbing other smaller peaks and testing yourself before the main expedition is also a great way to prepare for Tilicho Peak. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months before departure to ensure you are physically fit.

Mental preparation

Having prior knowledge of the environment you're heading into can be beneficial. Taking smaller steps toward achieving your end goal is also helpful. Attempting to climb a peak without preparation can be unpleasant and result in injury.

Taking on such journeys and challenges is to have fun, learn about different cultures, discover yourself, and feel confident and prepared to embark on an incredible journey. To prepare yourself mentally, it's crucial to acquire knowledge about the trek or climb you'll be undertaking since knowledge is power.

Tilicho Peak Expedition: Acclimatization and Altitude Sickness

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is necessary to let your body adapt to environmental changes. It is essential for climbers ascending high-altitude peaks. Climbers must give themselves multiple days to rest and engage in light activity. This process allows their bodies to adjust to the new environment. Hikers must also gain altitude at a speed that their bodies can handle.

At high elevations, air pressure drops, and oxygen becomes more dispersed. This leads to breathing difficulties, rapid heartbeat, and the production of more red blood cells to carry oxygen. So without proper acclimatization, hikers are at a higher risk of altitude sickness. Following your initial ascent, we will maintain a consistent climbing routine by ascending between 300-400 m daily. 

Each night's accommodations will be at an altitude of 300-400 meters higher. During this day, take some light trekking to reach a slightly higher altitude (300-400 meters) before returning to spend the night at the previous level.

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness is a common condition in mountainous areas. This condition can cause severe problems if not appropriately addressed. Symptoms of moderate AMS include a headache,  weakness, and nausea or vomiting. When experiencing these symptoms, descend to a lower altitude until conditions improve. Wait at least 24 hours at a lower height before attempting to climb higher again.

However, if you experience shortness of breath at rest or cannot walk alone, then your AMS has become more severe. To get better, you must quickly descend to lower elevations to avoid the risk of developing HAPE.

Acclimatize before climbing to reduce your risk of altitude sickness. This means taking your time to adjust to the decreased oxygen intake at higher elevations. Acclimatization varies for each person, and symptoms generally don't appear below 8,000 or 9,000 feet. 

To protect yourself against altitude sickness, consider taking Diamox or a similar medication to alleviate the symptoms. Additionally, staying hydrated throughout your high-altitude expedition can be beneficial.

Nevertheless, if you experience any concerning symptoms, you must inform your team immediately. They can assist you by arranging transportation to the nearest hospital. And if necessary, flying you back to Kathmandu via helicopter.

Best Months for Tilicho Peak Expedition

Tilicho Peak presents its best version between March to May and September to November. These months offer optimal weather conditions to explore this region's beauty fully. These months also provide an excellent opportunity to immerse in the local culture and lifestyle.

You can witness the picturesque beauty of Tilicho Peak during this time, making it a perfect blend of nature and culture. On the other hand, the slippery and muddy trails make it challenging to explore the region during June, July, and August, making these months less suitable for visiting Tilicho Peak.

Autumn Season For Tilicho Peak

In Nepal, September, October, and November welcome the refreshing and tranquil Autumn season. It is the perfect time to experience the beauty and charm of Nepal. The weather during this season is delightful, with clear blue skies, stable and moderate temperatures, and an overall pleasant climate.

This is an ideal season for adventure enthusiasts who wish to indulge in trekking and other outdoor activities. The Annapurna and Manaslu regions are a must-visit during this time, offering awe-inspiring mountain vistas and the Tilicho Peak Expedition, which provides a semi-arid landscape and a surreal natural ambiance.

Apart from this, Nepal is also known for its vibrant culture and festivals, such as Dashain and Tihar, which fall during this season. The festive spirit and traditions add to the already charming and welcoming surroundings.

With pleasant mornings and sunny days, the weather during Autumn is perfect for exploring Nepal's diverse and thrilling adventure activities. 

Spring Season For Tilicho Peak

As winter draws to a close in March, Nepal's vibrant Spring season bursts forth and lasts until May. This time of year is considered the most appealing time for travelers visiting Nepal. With clear skies and a temperate climate, the Spring season provides an ideal atmosphere for exploration.

As you trek through verdant forests, you'll be surrounded by the vibrant hues of rhododendrons in full bloom. 

Embarking on a Tilicho Lake Trek in Spring allows you to bask in the breathtaking vistas of the Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna, Pisang Peak, and a host of other stunning peaks in the region. The Gompas and monasteries dotted along the trekking route, as well as the unique trans-Himalayan landscape of the Manang valley, are particularly awe-inspiring during this season.

Spring is also a fantastic time to participate in the local culture in festivals and celebrations. With Mahashivaratri, Holi, Nepali New Year, Dussehra, and many other festivals taking place during this season, you'll have plenty of opportunities to engage with the vibrant spirit of Nepal. 

Summer and Winter ( Off Seasons for Tilicho Peak)

The summer season in Nepal runs from June to August and is ideal for exploring mountain regions due to favorable temperatures. However, the Terai and lower hilly areas can be challenging to travel due to high temperatures. Monsoon season also falls during the summer months, making trekking difficult due to frequent changes in climate and weather.

While trekking is not recommended during this time, hiking around the outskirts of valleys and nearby areas can still be enjoyable, with lush green vegetation on display. The Tilicho Lake trek is not advisable during summer due to uncertain weather conditions. Winter months from December to February are suitable for exploring urban and lower elevation places, but high elevations may experience snowfall and frosty conditions. While winter is not recommended for trekking in higher hills, hiking, and other activities are still possible.

Cost Of Tilicho Peak Expedition

Mountain Rock Treks offers peak climbing services for a Tilicho expedition that costs between $5000-$9000 per person. The company provides all-inclusive, high-quality services focusing on safety, summit success, cultural experiences, and fun. Our mountain adventure brand prioritizes responsible, ethical, and sustainable practices. Climbers can trust the team to take care of everything and enjoy their climbing holiday without any worries. Mountain Rock Treks explores the least climbed and remote peaks in the Himalayas and worldwide.

The cost of a Tilicho Peak expedition depends on various factors such as itinerary duration, facilities, meals, accommodation, travel insurance, permits, and guides. These factors determine most of the expedition cost. If you book with a tour company, they will manage all logistical requirements for you, but it is essential to read the cost inclusions and exclusions carefully before booking.

When embarking on such expeditions, a registered guide or lead Sherpa is usually involved. Moreover, sherpas from Nepali companies can have comparable or even more significant expertise than their Western counterparts. The fees for guided expeditions generally encompass all the necessary logistics, such as food, oxygen, sherpas, group gear, administrative charges, and permits.

An experienced Sherpa/guide proficient in English will be at the forefront of the operation. This person will shoulder the responsibility of the ascent and assume the role of group leader, making summit-related decisions and prioritizing safety.

Transportation Costs

The journey to conquer the majestic Tilicho Peak demands traversing through the breathtaking landscapes of Nepal. To reach the peak base, one must first take a scenic drive from Kathmandu to Dharapani, which can be undertaken via a local bus or a private vehicle.

While a local bus ride might seem economical, it can be pretty arduous, given the long hours of travel. However, it does offer an opportunity to soak in the picturesque vistas en route through the windows. A local bus ride to Tilicho Peak ranges from $5 to $10, making it an affordable mode of transportation.

On the flip side, local buses are generally cramped and uncomfortable, not ideal for a long journey on winding highways. A better option would be to hire a private vehicle for the trip, with greater comfort and convenience. Though slightly more expensive, ranging from $15 to $100, the private vehicle option provides a smoother and more luxurious travel experience. Moreover, the breathtaking views of the Himalayan terrain and scenic countryside make the additional expense worthwhile.

Whether one opts for a local bus or a private vehicle, the journey to Tilicho Peak is bound to be memorable. However, choosing the latter provides a more comfortable and hassle-free travel experience. 

Guides or Porters

Hiring a team of professional guides, porters, and crew members is necessary for a successful peak Tilicho Peak climbing expedition. 

These skilled experts will accompany you on the journey and assist you in difficult situations. The cost of hiring the team members is combined into the overall package.

A professional trekking guide can be hired at a daily rate of approximately 25 US$. Their services include guiding you through the routes, arranging accommodations, meals, and other logistical support. Similarly, the cost of porters in the region is around $ 15-$25 per day, or it can vary based on weight. On average, a porter can carry a load of up to 25 kg.

Furthermore, hiring a porter guide is comparatively more economical than hiring a professional guide. However, hiring a mountaineering climbing guide is imperative for a safe and successful climb, which may cost around $300- $500. 

Accommodation Costs

Kathmandu offers a range of accommodation options for travelers. Luxurious five-star hotels provide top-notch amenities and services at up to US$250 per night. But budget hotels can also be rented for US$15 - $50 per night.

Once you embark on your trek, however, your lodging options will change. Tea houses and lodges will be your primary accommodation choices, which lack the luxurious facilities of hotels but offer a warm bed and a meal for the day at a reasonable cost of around US$2 to US$6 per night. Due to limited availability, you may need to share a room or tent with other trekkers during peak seasons.

You will spend your nights in a tent or campsite in the base camps. Tents will be provided, and Sherpa guides will assist you in setting up your temporary shelter.

Food Costs

The food prices in Kathmandu vary depending on the dining location. While luxury hotels and high-end restaurants offer cuisine worldwide, small eateries provide decent food at a reasonable price. This implies that food expenses in Kathmandu range from $2 to $100, depending on the dining venue.

When trekking on high-altitude terrains, the food options become limited, with Dal-Bhat being a popular lunch and dinner option in teahouses. Other dishes such as momos, noodles, thukpa, and fried rice are also available, with food prices ranging from $5 to $15 per day along these trails. During an extended camping period at Tilicho base camp, our team members will prepare special homemade meals for you.

Insurance Cost

Travel insurance is important when engaging in adventure activities due to the possibility of encountering unforeseen circumstances along the journey. The insurance should encompass factors such as altitude sickness, injuries, and other unexpected events that may arise during the expedition.

The risk factor amplifies significantly when undertaking high-altitude adventures above 7,000m. Altitude sickness is a formidable challenge that could escalate into a severe condition if not addressed promptly. Emergency helicopter service may also be necessary in some instances. Therefore, to account for these potential challenges along the rough and snowy trails, it is essential to have travel insurance.

FAQs

  • Q1. What is Tilicho Peak Expedition?

    Tilicho Peak Expedition is an adventure trekking and mountaineering trip in the Annapurna region of Nepal. The expedition takes you to the top of Tilicho Peak, the highest lake in the world, standing at an elevation of 7,134 meters.

  • The best time to go on Tilicho Peak Expedition is during the pre-monsoon (March to May) and post-monsoon (September to November) seasons. During these seasons, the weather is stable and clear, providing stunning views of the mountains and making it easier to climb Tilicho Peak.

  • You must have previous mountaineering experience and good physical fitness to join Tilicho Peak Expedition. The peak is challenging, and you must have technical climbing skills, including ropes, crampons, and ice axes.

  • Tilicho Peak Expedition usually takes around 20-22 days from Kathmandu to Kathmandu. The trip includes acclimatization days, trekking to the base camp, climbing to the summit, and returning to the base camp and Kathmandu.

  • Tilicho Peak Expedition is a strenuous and challenging expedition with a difficulty level of 5D. The climb requires technical climbing skills and good physical fitness. The altitude and weather conditions also add to the difficulty level of the expedition.

  • You will need special equipment for Tilicho Peak Expedition, including climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, a climbing harness, ropes, a helmet, and a down jacket. You will also need other trekking gear, including a backpack, sleeping bag, and warm clothing.

  • Tilicho Peak Expedition takes you to the top of Tilicho Peak, which stands at an elevation of 7,134 meters (23,405 feet) above sea level.

  • Yes, going on Tilicho Peak Expedition is safe if you follow all safety measures and guidelines. The expedition is led by experienced guides and Sherpas, who will ensure your safety throughout the trip.

  • You can customize your Tilicho Peak Expedition itinerary based on your preferences and requirements. You can add or remove days from the itinerary, include other activities, or extend your stay in Nepal.

  • The cost of the Tilicho Peak Expedition varies depending on the duration of the trip, the number of people in the group, and the services included in the package. The cost usually includes permits, accommodation, food, transportation, climbing equipment, a guide, and Sherpa fees.

Client Reviews

  • Summit Fever: Tilicho Peak Climb

    The relationships formed on the climb were among the greatest highlights of the trip. I met some fantastic people, all of whom I would highly recommend traveling with if you have the opportunity. We all bonded over our shared experience and laughed and joked the whole way up and down the mountain. Ultimately, our climbing expedition was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I am grateful that I could go on it.

    S
    Sam OneillArgentinaApril 29, 2023
  • Tilicho Peak: A Challenge Worth Taking

    My expedition to Tilicho Peak in Nepal was a surreal experience. From the moment I set foot at the base camp, I felt a rush of vitality and was struck by the astounding natural beauty surrounding me. The trail leading to the summit was well-defined, ensuring a smooth and secure journey. The climate was ideal, with unclouded skies and a balmy temperature, making every step effortless. I never felt uneasy or apprehensive throughout the journey, and the panoramic views left me in awe at every turn. The culmination of the climb was beyond anything I could have imagined. The view from the top was magnificent, and the vista stretched as far as the eye could see in every direction. The memories of this breathtaking experience will stay with me forever.

    H
    Hannah FultonUnited KingdomApril 16, 2023
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