Upper Dolpo Trekking - Shey Gompa

The Dolpo region is located between the Dhaulagiri peaks and the Tibetan plateau. Before 1989,  when the southern portion of Dolpo was made accessible to organized trekking groups, the entire district was off-limits to hikers. Tours of Kathmandu's UNESCO World Heritage Sites mark the beginning of our trekking trip. Then we take a flight to Nepalgunj and then on to Juphal, where we start our journey through the Dolpo region, made famous by Peter Matthiessen's novel The Snow  Leopard. 

Upper Dolpo, also known as Inner Dolpo, is located in a relatively isolated part of Nepal. Even if there are other distant trekking areas in Nepal, Dolpo continues to be one of the most remote destinations. The time, expense, and difficulty of getting there to begin the journey are the causes of the scarcity of trekkers. 

Like the rest of Nepal, the Dolpa District is undergoing rapid change. A jeep road has been built across the Inner Dolpo settlements' main axis in recent years. The route travels from the village of  Mischagaon past the village of Chharka before arriving at the base of Sangda La. As of October  2022, mules and ponies carry cargo over Sangda La to the road that leads all the way to Jomsom on the other side. 

You might recognize Phoksundo Lake, Shey Gompa, Bon Po adherents, Buddhist temples, views of Dhaulagiri, Crystal Mountain (a mountain whose cliffs are covered in quartz and marine fossils),  distinctive Tibetan cultures, and the gorgeous and endangered snow leopard. Yes, they are, thanks to Peter Matthiessen's book "The Snow Leopard" and Eric Valli's documentary "Himalaya," which depicts Dolpo's life. 

The Caravan, Nepal's first Dolpo-focused film with English subtitles, was likewise a tremendous hit and was nominated for an Oscar for best foreign language film. We see beautiful communities, and trekking routes, and encounter fascinating people on our 28-day walk. We also travel over a couple of difficult Himalayan crossings and take in Phoksundo Lake's expansive and serene splendor. Our hike concludes when we go back to Jhuphal through the historic Trans-Himalayan Trade Route from Shey Gompa. We do enter Nepal's rugged west on the hike. 

Upper Dolpo Trek Route for 2025

Access to western Nepal is more challenging than to other regions due to its isolation. To reach  Juphal in the Dolpo district, you must first go to Nepalgunj on the plains. Most travelers arrive in  Nepalgunj by plane from either Pokhara or Kathmandu. From Nepalgunj, a flight to Juphal is taken. (While pricey charter flights can be booked from Pokhara, it is not possible to fly straight  to Juphal from Kathmandu.) The majority of scheduled tours depart from Kathmandu. Remember that Juphal's airport is nothing more than a tiny mountain airstrip where inclement weather frequently causes aircraft delays. 

Road travel to Nepalgunj is also possible, however, it takes a while from Kathmandu or Pokhara.  Although Western Nepal's roads are getting better, Juphal is still a few days' walks from the closest road head.